Kayak and Glacier Hiking, 8 days

Greenland kayaking tours 8 day Travel Journal

Day 1. Flight to Greenland, boat transfer to Narsaq city

Three-hour flight from Reykjavík (Iceland’s domestic airport) or Copenhagen to Narsarsuaq (Greenland) with breathtaking views of Cap Farvel and the huge southern Greenland ice sheet … I ‘m having the window seat! Welcome at the airport by our English speaking guide and transfer to the port of Narsarsuaq. An hours crossing by high-powered zodiac to the city of Narsaq, our last contact with civilization for a week. Once settled in our hostel off we go to our supply store to get kitted out with kayaks, paddles, clothing and navigation accessories. If conditions permit, we make first contact with water to get familiar with the use of the rudder. Overnight stay at the Kayak Hostel.

From the plane to Narsaq to prepare the equipment

Day 2. Kayak against the ice

Tranfer by zodiac boat to Qingaarsup island (one of many strange names we’ll hear!) where we will start the kayak expedition. We will follow the coast along the ice covered fiord among the icebergs coming from Eqalorutsit glacier. In this area, full of ringed seals, there is usually a greater density of ice, slowing down the kayak and sometimes even blocking access at certain locations. When we start the crossing to Nuulussuaq peninsula through we get the first views of the Inlandis, the polar cap. Once we arrive to Nulussuaq, we will install our camp and have a spot which was one of the Viking settlements in South Greenland. Camping overnight.

Qingaarsuup island: the first night of the expedition

Day 3. First glacier front

Protected by a network of channels between small islands and peninsulas, the route today is longer than the day before but with three breaks on land before reaching the glacial front at Naajaat Sermiat. We are now touching the Greenlandic ice cap for the first time, the legendary Inlandis, and next to it we pitch our tents. In a day spent enjoying nature’s extremes we have toured the entire Maniitsup Tunua fjord. Camping overnight

Icebergs on the Maniitsup Tunua fjord and group photo!

Day 4. Heading Qaleraliq glacier

The eastern bank of the Qaleralliq fjord

Paddling south from early morning, we are quickly sandwiched between two large islands, one of them called Caribou, for their presence on the island. The first break after a good 12 kilometers paddle, is just before turning into the channel and heading northwest along the Qaleraliq fjord (which translates as halibut). Sailing along the coast under cliffs for about 7 kilometers and just before reaching the three glacier tongues that make up the Qaleraliq glaciers, we cross the fjord to pitch camp on the beach which faces this colossal amphitheater which hangs from the Inlandis. By now we are used to the thunder claps of ice exploding, either from within the glacial cracks or the seracs that collapse into the sea… how small I feel in my kayak! After a break, we trek to Lake Tasersuatsiaq, climbing to where the fisherman finds trout and  the observer a privileged vista of the infinite Inlandis or the inland ice sheet of Greenland. Camping overnight

The glacial fronts of Qaleraliq seen from lake Tasersuatsiaq

Day 5. Ice hike

After breakfast and packing the tents, we sail to the end of the fjord (4 km), disembarking to enter the perpetual Inlandis ice sheet. It is a steady and easy climb along the last glacier tongue, enjoying the sights of the rimayas or large transverse cracks, as we approach the great moraine (mixture of ice and sediment) that leads to the 2,500 kilometers of icy plateau to the north of the island. In the afternoon we are sailing again, this time passing three glaciers in the direction Akulariuseq (Caribou Island), where we set up camp after having paddled about 10 kilometers. Camping overnight.

Forging through the rimayas before heading off to the Island of the caribou

Day 6. Ikersuaq Fjord

We are about 25 kilometers and two rest stops from Qingaarsuup Island, where we began the journey and where we are heading to today. To do this, after going around Maniitsoq Island (meaning rough terrain), we take a new route to the large northeasterly Ikersuaq fjord, facing again the colossal icebergs of the Eqaloruutsit glacier. This is also a seal area and where the chances of seeing whales are greatest… Pay close attention to the guide’s instructions! Camping overnight

He’s our guide!

Day 7. Tutturooq and Narsaq

We start the final day with diagonally crossing the 8 km of the Ikersuaq fjord towards the big island of Tuttutooq where we shelter in Stephensens Bay and visit the inuit ruins of Manitsuarsuk (settlement of fishermen and hunters, inhabited until the eighteenth century ). After eating we head off to Narsaq town, where we will find being back in civilization almost exotic! Once settled in our hostel off we can do some shopping or visit the museum, the fish market, the church, etc,. Dinner the last night in Narsaq usually in a restaurant, is not included in the tour price but of course, it is possible to use the hostel kitchen. Overnight stay at the Kayak Hostel.

Arriving at Tuttutooq island

Day 8 Flight back to Iceland or Denmark

In the morning we take the zodiac to Narsarsuaq, where after checking-in at the airport, you can visit the Bluie West One Museum, former US militay base frozen in time since the second world war.

Optional: Qooroq ice fjord excursion. The Qooroq is one of the most active glaciers that can be found in southern Greenland. We will navigate to the area where iceberg density will make it impossible to carry on, and which is without doubt one of Greenland’s best images (566 DKK or 85 € per person, 6 participants minimum).

Flight from Narsarsuaq to Reykjavík (Iceland’s domestic  airport) or Copenhagen.