Hiking & Kayaking, 8 days

Hiking and Kayaking in Southern Greenland Travel diary

Day 1. Narsarsuaq, Greenland

Three-hour flight from Reykjavik (Iceland’s domestic  airport) to Narsarsuaq (Greenland) with spectacular views of Kap Farvel and the huge southern Greenland icesheet … I’m having the window! Met by our English speaking guide at the airport, crossing the Eriksfjord  by zodiac to Qassiarsuk, our base in Southern Greenland. After staying at the Leif Eriksson Hostel we have our first thrill of the journey: a guided tour of the viking ruins of Brattahlid (present day Qassiarsuk), learning the history of the arrival of Eric the Red from Iceland at this small settlement in 985 and Leiff, his son’s voyage to Vinland ( Canada) in 1000. Of particular interest are the reconstructions of a viking house (spacious but cold) and an Inuit dwelling (small but warmer), transporting us back in time to the harsh conditions in which these people lived and it definitely shows us how the Inuit knew how to adapt better to the progressive cooling of the climate. Dinner and overnight stay at the Leif Eriksson Hostel.

Ice arch in the Eriksfjord

Day 2. The Mellem cabin

After leaving non-essential luggage at the hostel, we cross the Eriksfjord again and start ascending the Mellem Mountains through the Flower Valley. After two hours, almost by surprise, the Kiattut glacier appears at our feet, lost in the immensity of Inlandis or the inland ice-sheet of Greenland. Depending on the pace of the group, we go down to the glacier itself and walk on the million-year-old ice. The climb to the Mellem Cabin, among small lakes and tundra, takes another hour. Accommodation in tents at Mellem’s Camp.

Down the Kiattuut glacier to touch the eternal ice. Photo by Paul Font

Day 3. Qooroq Balcony

At this stage the trek is comfortable and quite spectacular, we head east through a lake region to arrive at a privileged viewpoint: the huge Qooroq glacier, one of the busiest in all of Greenland with over 200,000 tons of ice a day flowing in to the sea. So huge is the glacier under our feet that it looks like a road winding between nunataaqs (mountains jutting up from the ice) if we look to the North. Accommodation in tents at Mellem’s Camp

Qooroq balcony, onto infinite inland ice

Day 4. Highest peak and Ice navigation before a greenlandic dinner

On the way back to Narsarsuaq we ascend to the highest peak in Mellem Land to enjoy one of the most exclusive views of southern Greenland: the infinite Inlandis in the distance, two glaciers falling into the sea beneath us and behind us the labyrinth of fjords where we will be kayaking in the coming days. In the afternoon we cross the Eriksfjord by zodiac straight to a hot shower at the Leif Eriksson Hostel. From there we visit the Qooroq Ice Fjord, navigating as far as the chaos of icebergs and ice sheets allow us… The Endurance! Dinner at the hostel is “traditional Inuit”, with a sampling of some of the tastiest Greenlandic dishes. Overnight stay at the Leif Eriksson Hostel.

Day 5. Kayaking in Southern Greenland: Tasiusaq

On the way to Tasiusaq

In the morning, after leaving luggage not necessary for kayaking at the hostel, we start trekking towards the farms in Tasiusaq, an idyllic spot located at the foot of the Sermilik Fjord, always full of icebergs, as the backpacks are transported by jeep. Ten minutes from our hostel in Tasiusaq is the yurt (Mongolian tent) with the kayak equipment. After selecting waterproof clothing and navigation accessories we make first contact with the water in the small bay of Tasiusaq and get to know the basics of security. Overnight stay at the Hostel in Tasiusaq.

Day 6. Kayaking in Southern Greenland Expedition

Advantages of the silent kayaks…

Always following the guide, the experiences are unforgettable: navigating through the ice, and on many occasions among gigantic icebergs, the noise made by moving icebergs, seals heads suddenly appearing or kayaks slicing silently through the water. We weave from shore to open water to avoid icy barriers, we stop for lunch at small islands or on the coast if the group wants to… there’s no rush, our goal is about ten km west along the Sermilik Fjord to reach an isthmus where we set up camp. From there, we will take a short walk to the other side of the isthmus to admire the stunning view of the Eqalorutsit glacier: Now I understand why there were so many icebergs! Camping overnight.

The warriors’ rest

Day 7. Western Cape

Breakfast and, depending on how we see the passage through the ice, we take down the tents quickly or in no rush: it’s up to the guide. We can try to get close to the amazing area of Kangerlua, all year round blocked by ice or it is also possible, depending on if our muscles are feeling up to it, to paddle around the western cape of the fjord to see the Eqalorutsit glacier before starting back in the direction of Tasiusaq. Night spent in a tent

Field Meeting: the guide lays out the plans

Day 8 Flight to Iceland

In the morning we head off to Qassiarsuk while our backpacks are transported by jeep. Once in Narsarsuaq we recommend you visit the Museum of the American Base, the Bluie West One, untouched since the Second World War.

Flight Narsarsuaq to Iceland (Reykjavik airport) or Copenhaguen.