Considered as one of the ten wonders of the Arctic by Lonely Planet, Tasermiut Fjord is home to some of the best “big walls” in the world  of climbing. During this trip, before reaching South Greenland’s largest hanging glacier,  we will go on  several treks to explore the valleys, untouched by man, and admire their 2,000 meter summits … what better way than by kayak to move through this impregnable landscape?

Travel diary

Day 1. Flight to Greenland – boat transfer to Narsaq

Flight Reykjavík (Iceland’s domestic  airport) or Copenhagen to Narsarsuaq. Reception at the airport and preparation of equipment needed for the trip. We will begin the navigation by RIB boat to Narsaq, which is the third most populated town in South Greenland and well worth a good stroll around: free time to visit the local market, fur shops, the harbour or the Greenlandic museum… Apart from being stocked with everything (second last chance to do some last minute shopping).

Dinner and overnight stay at the Kayak Hostel.

Day 2. Nanortalik, the southernmost town in Greenland

Boat transfer to Qaqortoq, capital of southern Greenland founded in 1775 and described as the most attractive town in Greenland. After stroll around in Qaqortoq (where you should not miss a visit to the genuine “Qajaq”club) we keep on sailing to the picturesque and isolated Nanortalik, the southernmost city of Greenland of about 2300 inhabitants. The route between Qaqortoq and Nanortalik is a maze of islands and isthmuses which somehow reminds us of Scotland, although here it is surrounded by icebergs. It takes about three hours with a refueling stop midway in the small, unspoilt whaling village of Alliutsup Paa.

Dinner and overnight stay at the hostel in Nanortalik.

Days 3 to 6. Kuusuaq river and Tasersuaq lake

After doing a final check of all the material, we leave Nanortalik by zodiac boat and head towards the small picturesque village of Tasiusaq and the farms of Saputit and Nuugaarssuk, before reaching our camp by the river Kuusuaq, barely 700 meters long but known to be the best salmon river in the area. The camp is facing one of the few conifer plantations in Greenland. Our goal now is to explore the Quingua forest, the only indigenous forest in Greenland. This is a small set of dwarf birch (do not expect the jungle!) boxed in by 1,400 meters cliffs at the end of Lake Tasersuaq. To reach the freshwater we have to carry the kayaks for five hundred meters… It’s worth the effort!

Days 7 to 11. On course to the Tassermiut Big Walls

Back in the sea we begin the exploration of Tasermiut fjord itself. From here, the routes are flexible and the stages depend on the strength of the group and, of course, the weather. We start paddling along the eastern shore with its generous sandy beaches, towards the “Big Walls” of  South Greenland: the Ulamertorsuaq (1830 meters, the Arctic version of El Capitan in Yosemite), the Nalumasortoq (2054 meters, is shaped like an open book in which two pages are 900 meters tall and with overhanging wall sections) and, finally, the huge granite pyramid of the Ketil (2,010 meters).

The Nalu, 2054 meters resembles an open book

To reach the base of these walls the treks are easy, about two hours long, and along the shore of the fjord we see ruins of Viking settlements, particularly striking being  the Klosterdalen Monastery, at the mouth of the river that runs under the Ketil.

The Ula, a “Capitan” of 1830 meters

At the bottom of the Tasermiut fjord another awesome sight from the kayak awaits us: the Tasermiut glacier, descending 1400 meters in just three km… it’s a hanging glacier! We now begin our return journey to Nanortalik (about 80 km as the crow flies) from the eastern shore of the fjord, again we are in an alpine landscape with a rest stop and a trek to the base of the Napasorsuaq (1,590 meters). Throughout the trip, apart from fish, we have enjoyed mushrooms and blueberries found throughout the Tasermiut fjord: an excellent complement to dinner!

Day 12. Arrival in Nanortalik

Either by our own means (rowing) or by previous arrangement with the boat via the satellite phone we make Tasiusaq and then, boat transfer to Nanortalik.

Besides strolling around and enjoying the colorful houses or shopping, we absolutely recommend visiting the Museum of Inuit culture, the most comprehensive in Greenland, with all kinds of ancient tools, house reconstructions, clothes, a traditional kayak section and exhibits on the traditional myths and legends of the Eskimo culture … there isn’t enough time to see everything! Dinner tonight, usually in a restaurant in Nanortalik, is not included in the trip. Anyway, it’s possible to cook in the hostel. Night at the hostel-home/hostel.

Outside the Museum in Nanortalik

Day 13. Uunartoq Island hot springs and Qaqortoq

Transfer by boat to Uunartoq island, where we enjoy food and a long and relaxing  soak in the hot springs, with an amazing view of icebergs floating in the fjord. Then, we will pursue our navigation in order to get to Qaqortoq.

Overnight stay at the hostel in Qaqortoq.

Relax in the hot springs in Uunartoq

Day 14.Transfer by RIB boat from Qaqortoq to Qassiarsuq

Transfer by boat to  the small village of Qassiarsuk. From there we start hiking towards Tasiusaq, populated by only three families who live on their farms throughout the year. It takes about two and a half hours at a comfortable pace through a unique environment, with a way up to a hill from which we see the Sermilik fjord filled with icebergs from the Eqalorutsit glacier.

Optional: kayaking excursion among icebergs.

Overnight stay at the Tasiusaq Hostel.

Day 15. Viking ruins of Brattahlid before flight

Trekking way back to Qassairsuk, where we will do the visit of the Viking ruins of Brattahlid. In two hours we will hear the story of the arrival of Eric the Red from Iceland to this small settlement in 985, why it is called “green land” or why they established here the first Christian church in the Americas. Especially interesting is the reconstruction of a viking house (spacious but cold) and an Inuit dwelling (small but cozy), transporting us back in time to the harsh conditions in which these people lived and clearly shows how the Inuit were better adapted to widespread worsening weather conditions.

Then we cross the Eriksfjord to Narsarsuaq Airport. After luggage check-in we recommend the visit of the Bluie West One Museum, a US base frozen in time since the Second World War.

Flight from Narsarsuaq to Reykjavik (Iceland) or Copenhagen.